This is our only restaurant recommendation which is a self-service establishment. Xian Heng is the most well-known eating destination in Shaoxing, the city which also gives its name to China’s fabled rice wine.
Shaoxing is the ancestral home of China’s most beloved prime minister, the late ZHOU Enlai (1898 – 1976) and birthplace of ZHOU Shuren, whose pen name was Lu Xun (1881 – 1936). Xian Heng was opened by the author’s paternal uncle in 1894. The statue outside Xian Heng is KONG Yiji, based on a real-life character from one of Lu Xun’s no-holds-barred stories.
Kong is a complex character in an even more conflicted society. He identifies with the scholarly class but routinely fails even the lowest level of the imperial examination and cannot, therefore, rise to the ruling class. Kong wears a long gown, the emblem of the wealthy class, except he has no money.
At the inn (now the Xian Heng restaurant), peasants, workers and common folk who wear short tunics have to stand outside to drink their rice wine as they are not worthy to be inside. The inner sanctum is only reserved for the wealthy, well-connected, and long-gowned officials.
The innkeeper also waters down the wine served to the ordinary people even though they pay the same price as the privileged class. Corruption is an old Chinese currency. I have visited Xian Heng twice and am delighted to inform they allow every- and anyone to queue. And pay.
No.179 Lu Xun Middle Road
咸亨酒店 • 鲁迅中路179号
