Petit Manseng
The most exciting dry white wine of China – for the moment anyway – is not Chardonnay but Petit Manseng. Previously all made sweet, some producers have pivoted to a dry version.
One of the first, and best, is Longting Reserve Sea Breeze Dry Petit Manseng. First produced in 2020 (Longting has been producing a sweet version since 2016), the dry white ticks all the boxes: colour, aroma, palate, intensity, persistence, freshness, and ageability.
SONG Yan and her husband WANG Wenjing founded Longting Vineyard in 2013
Longting is located on the eastern slope of Mount Feng in Penglai, the northernmost point in the Shandong peninsula. The name ‘Longting’ captures the essence of Chinese culture. ‘Long’ (dragon) represents the supreme symbol of the Chinese nation, embodying power and nobility. ‘Ting’ (pavilion) stands as the crowning jewel of traditional garden architecture – a place where visitors may rest and relax. The image of a dragon resting in a pavilion symbolises blessing of good weather and harvests
Longting Vineyard is spread over 68 hectares. Half of the estate is dedicated to vines. The vineyard is planted primarily to Petit Manseng, Marselan, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot and Vidal
Petit Manseng originates from Jurancon, one of the oldest AOCs in France when created in 1936. Located in the Atlantic Pyrenees in south-western France, Jurancon is a white wine that can be dry or sweet. It is composed mainly of Gros and Petit Manseng although the blend can also include other varieties such as Courbu Blanc, Petit Courbu, Camaralet de Lasseube and Lauzet.
(Jurancon is not to be confused with the wine of Jura in central eastern France next to the Swiss border. Produced from the Savagnin grape, the vin jaune – yellow wine – of Jura ages in a barrel under a film of yeast which prevents it from oxidising. Vin jaune is similar to Fino Sherry although the former is not a fortified wine).
Petit Manseng originates from Jurancon (above), one of the oldest AOCs in France when created in 1936
Longting Reserve Sea Breeze Dry Petit Manseng 2023
Hand-picked (practically berry by berry), fermentation in stainless steel tank is followed by ageing in used, second-year (lightly toasted) French 225-litre barriques for six months. Lovely aromatics and palate: flowers, apricots, and tropical fruit including pineapples. There’s also a hint of bee wax or wet wool not dissimilar to Loire Valley Chenin Blanc such as Vouvray. Intensity and persistence. Delicious, gravity-defying freshness! Longting is situtated in Penglai, Yantai, Shandong Province. (14% alcohol)
Andrew Jefford, award-winning wine writer & columnist of Decanter; and Cynthia Guo, Marketing Director of Longting Vineyard. Photographed at Chinese Wine Tasting Plus London 7 May 2025
Jeff Wan, Sales Director of Longting Vineyard, presented Longting Reserve Sea Breeze Dry Petit Manseng at Hangzhou Forever 11 January 2026
Cynthia Guo, Marketing Director of Longting Vineyard; and Kobayashi Hiroshi, Director & Sommelier of Air Restaurant & Acoya Fukui & Kanshukuen. Photographed at Chinese Wine Tasting Plus Yokohama 14 April 2025
Petit Manseng at Longting Vineyard
Writer’s Note
On 12 May 2025, at the invitation of the Institute of Masters of Wine, I gave a tasting of 10 Chinese wines in London to its members. One of the four whites was Longting Reserve Sea Breeze Dry Petit Manseng 2022.
CH’NG Poh Tiong delivered the Chinese Wine Tasting for the Institute of Masters of Wine in London on 12 May 2025. The masterclass was attended by 26 participants, including 16 Masters of Wine. (Right) Annette Scarfe MW, Global Head of Events of Institute of Masters of Wine.
